MEMORIES AND RECENT HISTORY OF
THE WILLOW GARTH
by KENNETH BURDEN
The eastern edge of the fourteen or so acres that makes
up the Willow Garth, lies along the county border line that
separates West Yorkshire from North Yorkshire. The garth
itself is in West Yorkshire and as the crow flies is about a
mile east of Knottingley. It is about 300 yards north of the
A645 and a similar distance from the River Aire to the
north, and lies on a dedicated floodplain. Its grid reference
is Ordnance Survey sheet 105, 515 241.
During the early years of the twentieth century the garth
was owned by a Knottingley man named Taylor, but was
leased to a basket maker by the name of Barstow. The
Barstow family lived in a cottage, demolished some years
ago, but which stood beside the A645.
My late father, Albert Edward Burden, who was born in
1907, could remember as a lad, baskets being made in the
meadow adjacent to the garth. Many of these baskets
were of the type used by farmers when harvesting their
potato crop. My father gave me a very rudimentary
description, by crossing his forefingers, of the implement
used to strip the bark of the willow wands, as they were
pulled through it.
In those days, the garth was criss-crossed by ditches filled
with clear, clean water, used for drainage or irrigation, the
precise purpose of which I have been unable to ascertain.
By the time we lads discovered the Willow Garth in about
the mid-1940s, the place was in a terribly run down state.
All the ditches, save one, had become blocked by fallen
vegetation, many of the willow trees were dead or dying,
and hawthorn trees had become well established.
However, many of these hawthorns, much beloved by the
local magpies for building their nests in, were later chopped
down and dragged away by a striking miner and his family.
The garth and the surrounding farmland had at some time
passed into the hands of the nearby Tar Distillers, and the
only running stream ran from there directly to the river Aire
via the Willow Garth. Such was the amount of oily effluent
floating on the surface of this stream that in several places
along its course through the garth, simple oil traps had
been installed. These traps were just a plank of wood, the
ends of which were let into opposite banks, with the lower
edge just below the surface of the water. These devices
allowed water to flow unimpeded beneath them but held
back anything that floated on the surface.
Such was the
amount of substances trapped in this way, that an
employee of the Tar Distillers, Mr. George Morley of Beal,
was employed full-time to clean them off. Beside each oil
trap, George had built up a circular bank of earth, only a few
inches high, to form a small reservoir into which he put the
effluent, after he had ladled it off the stream’s surface with
his large scoop. Any water scooped out quickly drained
away, leaving only an oily film behind, which meant that the
reservoir could be used for some considerable time.
Such is the recuperative power of nature, that within a
very short time after the mini lagoons ceased to be used for
the purpose for which they were created, the rampant
vegetation had overgrown them. George wasn't very
friendly towards us lads, and if he came upon us in the
garth he would chase us out. The mature hawthorn tree
against which he propped his scoops and rakes is still
standing.
As Maurice Haigh wrote in a previous issue of the Knottingley Digest magazine,
the Willow Garth was indeed the main stamping ground for
the lads who lived in the lower half of Aire Street, as well as
for us lot living in Croft Avenue. The long straight willow
wands were much prized for use as arrows, while a sturdier
stick was used for a bow. We cut and chopped, not only for
bows and arrows, but to make countless dens. With the
approach of bonfire night, our chopping intensified with any
manageable tree or branch being cut down and dragged up
the lane to our bonfire site, which was located behind
Christ Church in The Croft. There's little wonder youngsters of our generation were thin as we were never still, but
usually very healthy!
We weren't to know at this time in our young lives, that all
the cutting we did benefited the willow trees immensely, for
now in the mid-forties there was not a young tree growing
on the place. As trees go, willows are not long lived, but
every one we cut off, the remaining stump or whatever, was
given a new lease of life, for most trees respond to such
treatment by sending out new shoots. Willows respond
well to this treatment.
Any commercial timber producer
wanting long, straight poles, would use either coppicing or
pollarding to produce them. Some coppiced trees live to a
very great age. Coppicing is when a tree is cut back to just
above the earths surface. Pollarding has taken place when
the trunk and branches are cut to about five feet above
ground level.
And so our childhood years passed, with us walking miles
to go bird nesting, while in the local streams and quarries
we caught newts and sticklebacks. In the Greenhouse,
(which we were robbed of), we threw our coats over
grasshoppers to help us catch them. We were sometimes
less than kind to frogs and butterflies, but it’s hard to
imagine any bunch of youngsters who had a better time or
who were happier than us in those days. As a teenager, with a pair of cheap binoculars and my
Observers Book of British Birds, which, costing five
shillings, was the first book I ever bought, I spent many
hours in the garth watching birds, but I kept no detailed
written records of what I saw.
Into adulthood and I still visited the area frequently but now
I had a much better pair of binoculars and a good field
guide, plus the fact that there was always a chance of my
running dogs picking up a rabbit, although I still did not
foresee the importance of keeping records.
Then in the early to mid 1960s, the management of Croda,
who now owned the Willow Garth, went ahead with work
that would alter the place drastically. An effluent treatment
plant had been built on the works from which a pipeline was
laid down to the Willow Garth, to a point were a red shale
dam, for want of a better word, had been installed about one third down its length from its western end, effectively
cutting off about two acres of the garth. My younger brother,
Albert, was to be operative of the new effluent cleansing
plant, which, when it went into operation, sent many
thousands of gallons of the treated effluent down to the
garth to settle behind the red shale barrier. The idea behind
this scheme was that the water would drain away through
the shale, leaving behind any sediment etc.. However, the
shale made an excellent dam, for nothing drained through
it, and instead the effluent, a deep red in colour, formed a
large pond. Fortunately it was not toxic, for after some
Mallards discovered it they were quickly followed by other
water fowl. The invasive common reed, phragmites,
introduced itself into the shallow end and once it was well
established it began its insiduous march across the pond.
Over the years the pipe line rusted away, but undeterred
Croda management allowed the effluent to find its own way
down to the garth. By doing so it ran over a public footpath,
but of the handful of people that used the path, no-one,
including myself, ever complained.
The first week of October 1973 was a bit of a red letter time
for the Willow Garth, for during that week a glossy ibis
dropped in. The ditch cleaner, George Morley, saw it first,
my brother Albert saw it a day or two later. I myself saw it
on the 6th, however, as no birdwatcher of note had
witnessed the event it was not accepted as a Yorkshire
record. But with a glossy ibis seen at a nature reserve in
South Yorkshire shortly after, it was grudgingly agreed that
the Willow Garth bird was a possibility.
By now I was in touch with people who convinced me of the
importance of keeping records, and I was mammal recorder
for the Castleford and District Naturalists Society. Through
holding this post, I learnt that Dr. Stephen Harris of the
Mammal Society, was coming to Gate Helmsley near York
on the 19th Jannuary 1975, to show interested people
where and how to search in winter, for the abandoned
summer breeding nests of the harvest mouse. At the time
it was thought that this, the smallest British rodent, which
builds its tennis ball sized nest in the stalk zone of tallish
grasses, reeds and cereal plants, was on the verge of
extinction in Yorkshire.
Along with three friends I attended
this field meeting and after a prolonged search, the group
manged to find two old nests. The tall grasses in which they
had been built had been flattened by winter wind and rain,
but the nests are so strongly built that they survive on the
ground until destroyed by new spring growth growing up
through them. When Dr. Harris told us of the most likely
places and the most favoured vegetation in which to search
for nests, it was as if he was painting a word picture of parts
of the Willow Garth and some areas around it. Two days
after the meeting, on the the 21st January, a friend and I
found 32 abandoned nests in and around the Willow Garth.
The question now posed was how had we, as lads, missed
these nests?
We had found other difficult things, for
instance the well hidden nests of willow warblers. A much
favoured grass, we now know is phalaris, but which we
knew then as elephant grass, we walked through on many
occasions but never searched, perhaps we thought it would
be unproductive as far as birds nests were concerned.
When the nest of a harvest mouse is being used in which
to rear a litter of young, the dying blades of grass wrapped
around it are constantly covered by fresh blades by the
parent mouse to help camouflage it. Searchers may find
them difficult to find at this time until they get their eye in.
When word spread, via the bush telegraph, about the
Willow Garth harvest mouse population, mammalogists came from far and wide to see the abandoned nests and
to see the type of terrain in which they could be found. We
were to cause a bigger stir, when in the summer of 1976 we
found current year nests with litters of baby mice in them.
A friend and I did quite a lot of work on these litters of baby
mice at the request of Dr. Harris, who you will remember
instigated the searches for the mice. He persuaded us to
break into the nests, count the number of young, and using
information supplied by him, check their coat (hair)
development, which by its various stages one can estimate
the baby mouse’s age. We were reluctant to break into the
nests fearing that the amount of damage we would do
would cause the nest desertion by the parent mouse, and
told Dr. Harris so. He asked us to go ahead saying that the
information we could provide would be most valuable and
the worst that the parent mouse would do would be to
remove the young to another nearby nest.
His advice proved to be very sound, for on the 23rd August
1975, two friends visited a nest which we already knew held
a litter of young mice. They had with them a cine camera
with which they hoped to get some footage of the baby
mice should they venture out of the nest. What they saw
surpassed their wildest dreams and has possibly never
been seen before or since. With the camera running they
watched as a mother mouse removed from the nest and
carried away one by one, six baby mice from the disturbed
nest and left them somewhere close by, for each trip she
made did not take long. Unfortunately, what should surely
have been unique footage came back from the developer’s
completely blank.
The next major development in the Willow Garth's history
came when two prominent members of the Castleford and
District Naturalists Society, due to records handed in by
myself, suggested to the Yorkshire Naturalists Trust (now
the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust) that they might like to have a
look at the place, with a view to doing something with it.
Things moved slowly, then when out for a walk one day, I
chanced to meet Croda Management and the YNT's Field
Officer, Mr. Stephen Warburton, walking around the Willow
Garth. Management were surprised and pleased when I
told them about the variety of birds and mammals that we
had recorded on this much maligned (due to their firm) bit
of land. Yes, the YNT were interested in the place, if some
part of it could be returned into some semblance of a
working willow garth.
Talks dragged on and on, but finally they entered the final
stages and the YNT's Field Officer asked me to form and
chair the first management committee. The Willow Garth
was leased to the YNT on the 1st November 1979 on a 21
year lease.
After this development I was asked by the Field Officer, if
I thought that Willow Garth should be made a site of Special
Scientific Interest or a full blown Nature Reserve. I opted for
a Nature Reserve without hesitation and was delighted
when the YNT agreed with me.
Now the work started to turn a sizeable piece of the Willow
Garth into something like a working willow garth. For the next four winters, working mainly on Sunday mornings, we
cut from on site, hundreds of slender willow wands which
we planted at three foot centres, leaving about three feet
protruding from the ground. The word planting is perhaps
a bit of a misnomer, what we actually did was walk along
a line with a bundle of willow wands, sticking the thick end
of each wand about six inches into the ground. We had an
almost 100% success rate. A commercial willow grower
would have more than likely planted at eighteen inches
centres, but we did not want to grow as many wands as
they did.
When not planting willows, the management committee
had plenty of other tasks to keep them busy. Sometimes,
with help from the British Trust of Conservation Volunteers,
we tried to control the handsome, but invasive, Himalayan
Balsam, planted hedgerow trees along the edges of the
reserve, a one off job of stringing a barbed wire fence
along the reserve’s quarter mile long northern boundary
and removing tree stumps which were sticking out of the
standing water. These stumps were the legacy of the
striking miner, who with his son had cut down many of the
mature hawthorns and carted them away.
The then warden of Fairburn Ings had given us an old
rowing boat, without which the removal of these stumps
would have been well nigh impossible. It was very hard
work pulling these stumps out by hand to say they had
been immersed in water a good many years. From a
cosmetic point of view the pond looked better without them
and it would be safer surely, for wildfowl flighting in after
dark, as we now had a good number of ducks using the
pond.
Some time after it became a reserve, the effluent stopped
being run down and we were faced with the prospect of
losing the pond, unpleasant as the water looked when
seen close up. I never thought that I would think along
these lines but as far as I was concerned the pond had
become an important feature of the reserve, and without it
our bird list would be reduced drastically. It was to attract
more birds, for as the level dropped revealing muddy
margins, wading birds began to drop in to feed. It was just
a pity that we couldn't raise the water level at will for this
would have meant we could have kept the margins suitably
wet at all times.
My brother Albert was also a member of the management
committee and you may remember worked on the effluent
plant. He was asked by me if he would approach
management and ask if some of the firm’s cooling water,
which was drawn from the nearby canal, could be diverted
and sent down to the reserve. This the management
agreed to do, provided the firm was not inconvenienced in
any way. So, in the firm’s time, Albert laid hoses almost to
the edge of the reserve to fill up the pond. This was a job
that he had to do at least once a summer each year. This
was a god send, for with the rivers and canals being much
cleaner now than in the past, regular injections of their
waters down onto the reserve slowly diluted that which
once made up the pond.
Our thoughts then turned to viewing hides, two of which we
decided would be raised, stood on stilts as it were. This we
achieved by inserting into the ground at each corner, a
telegraph pole, putting in a floor about four feet from the
ground and building up from there. Two such hides were
built and a smaller one at ground level overlooking a small
pond that was visited often by a Kingfisher. Then the major
building, a visitor centre, to be used also by the committee
and any visiting naturalist doing field work on the reserve.
A bird ringer from Leeds was working on the reserve and
it was important that he had a place to measure, weigh and
ring his birds.
As a member of the Yorkshire Mammal Group, I invited
them to run a small mammal trap on the reserve using their
catch em alive Longworth traps. We thought it important to
try and get to know something about our small mammals
population. After several trapping sessions when the one
hundred and fifty traps we used, each with food and nesting
material in them, were checked every morning at 08:00 hrs
and again in the evening at 20:00hrs, the results suggested
that the common shrew was the reserve’s most abundant
small mammal. They also showed that the woodmouse
was scarce and bank and meadow vole did not fare much
better. Nothing can be read into the results of the traps,
other than species present. Trapping would have to be
carried out for several years before any useful patterns
began to emerge.
Alas, I was not to see the impact that a working willow garth
would have on local wildlife. The passing years brought the
inevitable changes to the members of the Management
Committee, and it did not take long for the last two
replacement members and so called friends, to make my
position as chairman untenable. But the less said about that
the better. Suffice to say that after a period of ten years I
took the easy option and resigned in 1989 and turned my
back on large conservation projects. I turned to a great love
of mine, the inland waterways, bought a narrow boat and
along with my wife Doreen, set off to discover England and
Wales by canal.
During my involvement with the Willow Garth it had always
suffered from occasional petty acts of vandalism, but what
happened after my departure was dreadful. I am not sure
what had been said, if anything, to the local bad lads, but
retribution was probably swift in coming. The two most
wanton acts were the burning down of the visitor’s centre
and the stripping off of the timber cladding of at least one
of the hides, leaving the bare supports pointing to the sky.
I hope that all the written records that I left did not go up in
smoke along with the centre. I am told that the
management committee resigned en bloc in the face of
such vandalism.
I spoke to a representative of the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust on
30th January 2007, and was told that the garth is still a
reserve, but with no management committee, and that no
practical work had been done for a number of years.
However, the trust is in talks with several groups who may
be able to supply voluntary labour so with a bit of luck
perhaps all is still not lost for the Willow Garth.
Kenneth Burden.